Meet Han Suk Cho, the visionary founder of Zero Proof and one of the rising stars in the non-alcoholic cocktail movement. Inspired by her childhood in rural South Korea, Han’s passion for crafting beverages that bring people together began with a simple wish: to create a drink her mother could enjoy on special occasions. This desire has blossomed into a career dedicated to elevating non-alcoholic cocktails, earning her recognition as one of Punch Drink’s best new bartenders in 2023. Through Zero Proof, she blends seasonal, fresh ingredients with cultural influences, offering an inclusive experience for both drinkers and non-drinkers alike. In this interview with the Bartender Spirits Awards, she delves into her creative process, the rise of non-alcoholic cocktails, and the evolving role of bartenders in shaping dining experiences.

Here are the edited excerpts from the interview.

You are a multipotentialite, donning the titles of sommelier, chef, music composer, entrepreneur, and bartender. How did you develop an interest in these varied fields and fulfill your duties in each one of them? 

My career as a musician and restaurant worker began simultaneously. As a young artist, it was tough financially, so working in restaurants was a practical choice. Eventually, I realized I enjoyed the restaurant lifestyle more than being a musician, and my priorities shifted. Ironically, once I stopped pressuring myself to succeed in music, I found more enjoyment in it. I’m someone who thrives on variety. Even when you love your job, burnout can happen, so balancing roles in both the front and back of house keeps me engaged. It allows me to tap into multiple creative outlets, from hospitality to music and entrepreneurship.

As the founder of Zero Proof and a prolific name in the non-alcoholic movement, what do you believe has driven the growth in interest for non-alcoholic beverages? 

My interest in non-alcoholic beverages began when I saw my mother, who doesn't drink, sipping water while others had special drinks. This sparked a lasting idea of inclusivity, which has been central to my hospitality career. Making someone feel left out is not hospitable, and seeing a guest’s face light up when they try my non-alcoholic cocktails is incredibly rewarding. Many people drink alcohol due to social pressure, but the pandemic caused many of us to reassess our lives and the company we keep. This shift has influenced drinking habits. Life is fragile, and we shouldn’t waste time worrying about others judging what’s in our glass.

Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a non-alcoholic cocktail? How do you balance flavor complexity with the unique challenge of creating a drink that doesn't rely on alcohol as a base? 

When designing non-alcoholic cocktails, I often draw inspiration from classic dishes. For example, in Thanksgiving dinner, sage is a staple in stuffing, and apple pie is a favorite dessert. I’d infuse apple juice with sage and then add a layer of floral or earthy notes, like chamomile or young green tea. The result is clarified apple juice infused with sage and chamomile or green tea. Balancing flavors in non-alcoholic cocktails can be tricky, so I use different textures and techniques to enhance them. Carbonating the drink or using vegetable glycerine are simple solutions, and I sometimes rely on over-brewed teas or unripe persimmons to add a tannic, dry texture.

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With the rise of the 'zero-proof' trend, how do you approach crafting a drink menu for both alcohol drinkers and non-drinkers? What challenges and opportunities does this present for bar and restaurant menus? 

When creating alcohol-free cocktails, I don’t try to replicate alcoholic drinks. I focus on crafting something entirely different—no virgin piña coladas or alcohol-free negronis. In food, cocktails, and music, it’s challenging to create something truly original, so the zero-proof trend excites me as an opportunity for innovation. For bar and restaurant menus, this presents both challenges and opportunities. Balancing offerings for both alcohol drinkers and non-drinkers requires avoiding mocktails and instead focusing on unique, well-crafted beverages that appeal to all guests.

Also read: Raising the Bar: Laura Taylor’s Journey with Mingle Mocktails

What role do you see bartenders playing in shaping the overall dining experience in fine dining? How do you collaborate with chefs and sommeliers to create a cohesive experience? 

I view bartenders as the bookends of a fine dining experience—starting with a cocktail, enhancing the meal with pairings, and finishing with a digestif. A fine-dining experience is akin to a symphony, characterized by contrast, storytelling, tempo changes, and a distinct beginning and end. Bartenders play a key role in shaping this narrative. Collaborating with chefs and sommeliers is like playing in an orchestra. Each of us has a unique opportunity to shine, and it's crucial to know when to lead or support without ego. It’s impossible for any one department to dominate the entire experience—it's about harmony and balance.

Image: Han Suk Cho, the founder of Zero Proof

In order to offer your customers a sensory experience, what are some tips and tricks you keep in mind when it comes to infusing local and cultural elements into your cocktail creations? 

I believe that "eyes drink first, nose drinks second, and mouth comes last." This principle guides how I approach creating a sensory experience. From polished greetings and the sound of shaking tins to the bartender's presentation, every detail contributes to the overall experience before the drink even reaches the mouth. Living in California, where agriculture thrives, I’ve always prioritized working with local farmers. High-quality ingredients reduce the need for heavy manipulation. Growing up in Korea, I learned to appreciate seasonal produce, so I often draw inspiration from childhood memories and conversations with farmers to shape my creations.

What’s your approach to using music as an inspiration in your work? How do the two creative outlets (music and bartending) complement each other in your mind? 

To tap into my creative mindset, I listen to an album repeatedly, analyzing the techniques used by the composer. I then apply those same techniques to bartending. Elements like movements, unexpected key changes, and little surprises are transferable between music and cocktails. Crafting a cocktail is like creating harmony—balancing flavors is akin to playing the right notes in tune.

What do you think are the key trends shaping the future of bartending, especially with the increasing focus on sustainability, health, and non-alcoholic options? 

The demand for alcohol-free cocktails has surged in recent years, and I believe in the near future, the ratio of alcoholic to alcohol-free drinks on menus will be nearly equal. One great benefit of alcohol-free cocktails is that they allow the use of imperfect fruits and vegetables, making them both sustainable and healthier. Whether someone avoids alcohol for health or personal reasons, choosing these drinks contributes positively to sustainability and well-being. After the pandemic, people are less interested in feeling guilty and more focused on making choices that align with their values.

As someone who has worked at some of the best restaurants globally, what differences have you noticed between the bar culture in South Korea and in other parts of the world, particularly when it comes to innovation in drinks? 

Recently, I’ve noticed a growing trend in Korean bars using native ingredients and local liquors. Korea has a rich history of microbreweries and distilleries, some of which have been around for centuries. It’s refreshing to see the new generation of bartenders in Korea embracing local spirits and collaborating with small farmers, showing pride in their heritage.

Also read: From Sommelier to Shaker: Chelsea Kim's Quest to Elevate Korea’s Cocktail Scene

What advice would you give to aspiring bartenders or chefs looking to make a mark in the non-alcoholic cocktail scene?

I recommend aspiring bartenders or chefs take a break from alcohol for at least three months to truly understand the experience of non-drinking guests. Drinking alcohol-free cocktails and visiting bars as both a drinker and non-drinker offers different perspectives that can help you create more inclusive and thoughtful experiences for your guests.

Header image by Han Suk Cho

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